October 11, 2026

Cufflinks Guide: Styles, Metals and How to Wear Them Without a Tuxedo

By Sasha Tarasova

Filed under Designer & Signed JewelryGold & Precious MetalsBuying Guides

Short answer: cufflinks are paired fasteners that close a shirt cuff with buttonholes on both sides instead of a sewn-on button. They need a French (double) cuff or a convertible cuff, and they come in four main fittings: swivel or bullet back, chain link, fixed back and double-faced stud. Vintage gold cufflinks can be worn with a suit, a blazer or knitwear, with no tuxedo required.

This guide covers what the fittings are, which shirts take them, what the metal stamps mean, which makers to look for in the vintage market, and how to wear a pair on an ordinary weekday without looking as if you are heading to a wedding.

What are cufflinks, and where did they come from?

Cufflinks are two decorated faces joined by a bar, chain or post that passes through both layers of a shirt cuff and holds them closed. They replaced ribbons and laces, which is how shirt cuffs were usually closed until the seventeenth century.

The earliest versions were pairs of matching buttons joined by a short link of chain, known at the time as sleeve buttons. They were worn by men who could afford both the jewelry and the linen shirts that required it. Through the eighteenth century they appeared in gold, silver and paste. The nineteenth century brought mass production, the stiffened formal shirt and the double cuff, and cufflinks became a standard part of a well-dressed man's kit rather than a luxury.

The twentieth century is where most of the vintage market sits. Art Deco enamel, 1940s and 1950s heavy gold, mid-century novelty designs and the signed designer pairs of the 1960s to 1990s are the pieces that come through the trade today. Georgian and early Victorian sleeve buttons exist, but they are scarce and usually sold as collector pieces rather than things you wear to the office.

What are the different types of cufflink fittings?

The fitting is the mechanism on the back of the cufflink, and it decides how easy the pair is to put on, how it sits on the cuff and how durable it is. There are four main types, plus a few specialist variations.

Swivel back, bullet back and whale back

The most common fitting today. A straight post runs from the back of the face and ends in a small bar that pivots. Turn the bar in line with the post, push it through both buttonholes, then flip it sideways to lock. A bullet back is a swivel bar shaped like a short cylinder with rounded ends. A whale back is a flat, solid bar, often slightly curved, that flips on a hinge. Both are quick to fasten with one hand, which matters more than you would think when you are dressing yourself.

The signed Gucci 18k yellow gold cufflinks in our collection use this fitting: ribbed, reeded gold batons on swivel-bar backs, 22.8 grams for the pair. To be precise about age, that pair is a twenty-first century signed Gucci design rather than vintage by date. It is pre-owned, solid 18k gold and signed, which is what most buyers in this category are actually paying for.

Chain link

The oldest style. Two faces, or a face and a smaller back, joined by a short length of chain. Chain links sit more loosely on the cuff and let the fabric drape naturally. They are the most traditional choice with formal wear and the fiddliest to fasten, because both ends are loose. Inspect the chain carefully on a vintage pair: the small jump rings that join the chain to each face are the usual point of failure.

Fixed back

A rigid post with no moving parts, often ending in a larger ball or a second decorative face. There is nothing to break, which makes a fixed back very durable, but it takes some patience to feed through a stiff, freshly laundered cuff.

Stud or double-faced links

Two faces of equal size joined by a short solid bar, sometimes called dumbbell links. They look identical from both sides of the cuff. The same term, studs, also covers the separate shirt studs worn in the front placket of a formal dress shirt, which were traditionally sold as a matching set with the cufflinks.

Snap-apart links and silk knots

Early twentieth-century snap links separate into two halves that press together through the cuff. They were sold under several trade names in the United States and are common in the vintage market. Check that the snap still grips firmly before you buy: a tired spring means a lost cufflink. Silk knots are cheap, braided fabric fastenings, not jewelry, but they are useful for learning whether you like wearing a double cuff before you commit to gold.

Which shirts can you wear cufflinks with?

You need a cuff with a buttonhole on both sides and no sewn-on button in the way. Three cuff styles qualify.

• French cuff (double cuff). An extra-long cuff folded back on itself, so the link passes through four layers of fabric. It is the classic cufflink shirt and the only correct choice for black tie.
• Single link cuff. A single-thickness cuff with buttonholes on both sides. It is more formal than it sounds; the traditional white-tie shirt uses it.
• Convertible cuff. A standard barrel cuff with a button and a second buttonhole, so it can be closed either way. Many ready-to-wear dress shirts are made like this. You can remove the button if it gets in the way, though most people just let it sit under the link.

An ordinary barrel cuff with one buttonhole and one button will not take a cufflink. Neither will most casual shirts, although some shirtmakers will add a second buttonhole to a cuff you already own.

How to fasten a double cuff

Pinch the two edges of the folded cuff together so the inside faces touch and the edges point away from the wrist, like a pair of hands pressed together. This is the "kissing" position, and it is standard. Push the cufflink through all four holes from the outside, with the decorative face on the side that faces away from your body, then lock the fitting on the inside. On a single or convertible cuff you can also overlap the ends like a barrel cuff, which sits flatter under a tight jacket sleeve.

What metals are cufflinks made from?

Fine cufflinks are almost always 18k or 14k gold, sterling silver or platinum, often with enamel, mother-of-pearl or hardstone faces. Costume pairs are gold-plated, gold-filled or base metal. The metal matters because cufflinks take real mechanical stress: the post and swivel are small parts that get pushed through stiff fabric every time you dress.

Our guide to what 375, 585 and 750 mean on gold explains how to read these numbers, and the comparison of plated, filled, vermeil and solid gold covers the marks that sound like gold but are not. A British 9k pair is still solid gold, just a lower proportion of it, and should be priced that way.

Italian gold usually carries 750 together with a registration mark: a star, a number and a province code inside a lozenge, which identifies the maker. Many signed Italian pairs carry both the house name and this registration mark. When a stamp looks wrong, or there is none, a professional test matters more than any mark. Our guide on how to tell if gold is real sets out the tests that work.

Faces: enamel, hardstone and plain gold

Plain polished or textured gold is the most versatile and the most durable. Enamel (powdered glass fused onto metal) adds colour but chips if knocked against a desk edge, and invisible enamel repair is difficult. Hardstone faces such as onyx, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl were popular from the Art Deco period onwards; all are softer than gemstones such as sapphire and scratch more easily. Check for cracks across the stone and lifting at the edge of the setting.

Which vintage cufflink makers are worth looking for?

Most vintage cufflinks are unsigned, and many good ones are beautifully made. A maker's signature changes the price, and a few names come up again and again in the pre-owned market.

• Cartier. Signed gold, enamel and hardstone pairs from the mid-century onward, often numbered. Our guide to vintage Cartier beyond the Love bracelet covers what to check.
• Tiffany & Co. Plain gold, silver and designer pairs, including designs by the house's named designers.
• Gucci. Gold pairs with the ribbed, reeded and horsebit-inspired motifs of the house's hardware. Our vintage Gucci jewelry guide explains the signatures and how to read them.
• Hermès. Silver and gold pairs, including the chain motifs associated with the house.
• British makers. Birmingham and London workshops produced vast numbers of 9ct and 18ct pairs, fully hallmarked and therefore easy to date.
• American mid-century brands. Costume makers produced cufflinks in huge quantities from the 1940s to the 1960s. They are affordable and fun, but not fine jewelry.

Why a signature matters, and when it should not, is covered in signed vs unsigned jewelry. We are an independent dealer and not affiliated with Gucci, Cartier, Tiffany, Hermès or any other house named here; brand names are used only to describe the pieces. Final authentication of a signed piece rests with the house itself or a qualified specialist.

How do you wear cufflinks without a tuxedo?

Wear them with a French or convertible cuff under a suit or blazer, and choose a pair that matches the formality of the rest of the outfit. Plain gold or a single colour of enamel works with a navy suit and no tie. A jeweled or brightly enameled pair belongs with a dark suit in the evening.

1. Start with the shirt. Plain white or pale blue with a double cuff is the easiest canvas.
2. Match your metals loosely. Yellow gold links with a yellow gold watch, belt buckle or signet ring read as intentional. Mixing is fine once you know you are doing it.
3. Get the sleeve length right. About a centimetre of cuff should show below the jacket sleeve. Too much and the links dominate; none and nobody sees them.
4. Scale to your wrist. Faces around 15 to 20 mm across suit most wrists. Large faces look better on larger wrists and with heavier fabrics.
5. Consider the watch. A thick cufflink on the watch wrist can snag on the watch case. A slim pair, or a smaller vintage dress watch, avoids the fight.
6. Try it without a jacket. A double-cuff shirt with sleeves folded once at the wrist and plain gold links works with good trousers and nothing else. So does a fine crew-neck knit with the cuff showing at the wrist.
7. Keep one detail loud. If the cufflinks are the statement, keep the tie, pocket square and rings quiet. A pinky ring and bold cufflinks can work together, but not with a patterned tie as well.

Cufflinks for women

Women have worn cufflinks with tailored shirts since at least the early twentieth century, and many vintage pairs are small enough for a slim wrist. Nothing about the fitting is gendered. Choose a smaller face and a swivel back, which is the easiest fitting to manage on a narrow cuff.

How big and heavy should cufflinks be?

Most wearable gold cufflinks have faces between 12 and 22 mm and weigh roughly 8 to 25 grams for the pair in solid gold, depending on design. Weight is a fair guide to how much gold you are buying, and with an unsigned pair it is often the main driver of price.

Very light solid-gold pairs, often under 6 grams, are usually hollow or thin-walled, and they dent easily. Very heavy pairs look impressive but can drag a soft cuff downward. The Gucci batons at 22.8 grams are at the substantial end of normal and sit well on a firm French cuff.

Ask for the weight in grams whenever you buy gold cufflinks online. A seller who cannot give it has either not weighed them or does not want to.

What should you check before buying vintage cufflinks?

Check the fitting first, then the metal, then the faces. A beautiful face on a failing mechanism is a lost cufflink waiting to happen.

1. Work the mechanism. The swivel should turn firmly and click or hold in both positions. A floppy bar that turns under its own weight is worn.
2. Check the post joint. Look where the post meets the back of the face for cracks, lead solder (grey and dull against gold) or a visible repair.
3. Read the marks. Look for a gold standard on the post or the back of the face, and for a maker's signature. On a signed pair, the style of lettering and its position should be consistent with the period.
4. Weigh them. Compare the weight to similar pairs. An unusually light "18k" pair deserves a second look.
5. Inspect the faces under magnification. Look for chips in enamel, cracks in hardstone, and wear through plating at raised edges.
6. Confirm they are a pair. Mismatched pairs, made up from two different sets, are common. Compare the marks, the dimensions and the wear.
7. Ask what has been repaired. A dealer should tell you plainly what has been repaired or replaced. Replaced posts and swivels are common and acceptable, but they should be disclosed.

How do you care for gold cufflinks?

Store them in a divided box or pouch so the faces do not rub against each other. Take them out of the shirt before it goes to the laundry. More vintage cufflinks are lost to laundry bags than to anything else.

Plain gold can be washed in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap and dried with a soft cloth. Keep enamel, pearl, mother-of-pearl and porous hardstones out of ultrasonic cleaners and away from harsh chemicals. Our guide to cleaning antique jewelry at home covers which materials tolerate what. Have a jeweler tighten a loose swivel before it fails. It is a small repair when caught early.

Questions people actually ask

Can you wear cufflinks with a regular shirt?

Only if the cuff has a buttonhole on both sides. A French cuff, single link cuff or convertible cuff will take cufflinks. A standard barrel cuff with a sewn-on button and one buttonhole will not, unless a tailor adds a second buttonhole. Many ready-to-wear dress shirts are convertible, so check the cuff before assuming you need a new shirt.

Which way should cufflinks face?

The decorative face goes on the outside of the cuff, facing away from your body, so it can be seen when your arms are at your sides. On a double cuff, press the two edges together so they point outward, like hands pressed together, and push the link through from the outer side. Lock the fitting on the side nearest your wrist.

Are vintage gold cufflinks a good buy?

Often, yes. Unsigned solid-gold pairs frequently sell at a modest premium over their gold content, because the market for cufflinks is smaller than for rings or bracelets. Signed pairs from major houses cost more and hold their appeal better. Check the weight, the gold standard and the mechanism, and treat any value expectation as uncertain rather than guaranteed.

What is the difference between a bullet back and a whale back?

Both are pivoting fittings that lock by turning a bar sideways. A bullet back is a short cylindrical bar with rounded ends that swivels on the post. A whale back is a flat, solid, slightly curved piece that flips on a hinge. Whale backs are sturdy and easy to use; bullet backs are the most common fitting on modern and late twentieth-century pairs.

Can women wear cufflinks?

Yes. Women have worn cufflinks with tailored shirts for more than a century, and many vintage pairs are small enough for a narrow wrist. Choose a smaller face, around 12 to 15 mm, and a swivel or whale back, which is easier to fasten on a slim cuff. They work with a white shirt and trousers as well as with a suit.

How can I tell if my cufflinks are real gold?

Start with the marks: 750 or 18K, 585 or 14K, 375 or 9ct, often on the post or the back of the face. Markings such as GF, GP or 1/20 12K mean plated or gold-filled rather than solid gold. Marks can be faked or missing, so a jeweler's acid or electronic test, or an XRF reading, is the reliable confirmation.

Looking for a specific signed pair, or something to match a watch or a ring from our men's jewelry collection? Tell us what you want and we will look for it. Signed vintage cufflinks are one of the categories our sourcing service searches for most often.