Journal
The Journal
Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.
Memento Mori Jewelry: Skulls, Coffins and the Georgian Art of Remembering Death
Memento mori jewelry explained: sixteenth and seventeenth-century skull and coffin rings, Stuart crystal slides, Georgian mourning rings with names and dates, how...
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Does the Gold Price Matter When You Buy Jewelry? Melt Value vs What You Pay
Does the gold price matter when you buy jewelry? How to calculate melt value from weight, karat and spot price, why retail...
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How to Tell If Turquoise Is Real: Dyed Howlite, Stabilised Stone and Block
How to tell if turquoise is real: the drill-hole check that exposes dyed howlite and magnesite, what stabilised, enhanced and block turquoise...
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What a 1 Carat Diamond Really Looks Like: Size, Price Jumps and Smarter Choices
What a 1 carat diamond really looks like: about 6.4 to 6.5 mm for a well-cut round, why ovals and pears look...
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Aquamarine vs Blue Topaz: How to Tell Them Apart
Aquamarine vs blue topaz: why one is iron-coloured beryl and the other usually irradiated topaz, how density, refractive index and dichroism separate...
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Synthetic Rubies Since 1902: The Lab Stones Hiding in Antique Rings
Synthetic rubies have been made since Verneuil's flame-fusion process of 1902, and many Edwardian, Art Deco and 1940s rubies are lab-grown. How...
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How to Stack Rings: Mixing Antique Bands, Metals and Stones
How to stack rings: the anchor-and-band formula, how many rings to wear and on which fingers, mixing gold colours and antique with...
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Can Diamonds Chip or Break? What 'Hardest Material' Really Means
Can diamonds chip or break? Why Mohs 10 hardness is not toughness, how octahedral cleavage works, where diamonds chip, why old cuts...
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Padparadscha, Pink and Yellow Sapphires: The Colours Beyond Blue
Fancy sapphires explained: padparadscha, pink, yellow, orange, purple, green, white, colour-change and parti sapphires, where each comes from, how they are treated,...
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