Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

A hand wearing an antique old European cut diamond ring on green velvet, with two antique halo rings and a diamond necklace nearby.
October 2026

Old Money Jewelry: The Pieces That Look Inherited, Even When They're Not

Old money jewelry explained: the signet rings, pearls, gold chains, tank watches, diamond studs, antique engagement rings and cufflinks that look inherited,...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings in a velvet tray, with a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
October 2026

Salt and Pepper Diamonds: The Imperfect Stone Everyone Wants

Salt and pepper diamonds explained: what the black and white inclusions are, why the stones are popular, rose cuts and hexagons, durability...

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Hands inspecting the hallmarks inside a gold ring with a jeweler's loupe, beside calipers and a sketchbook.
October 2026

How to Tell If David Yurman Jewelry Is Real

How to tell if David Yurman jewelry is real: the D.Y. and 925, 585 and 750 marks, what a genuine cable twist...

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Loose ruby, emerald, sapphire, citrine and amethyst gemstones on an antique tray with tweezers, a loupe and cut diagrams.
October 2026

Ruby Buying Guide: Pigeon's Blood, Origin, Heat and Glass-Filled Rubies

Ruby buying guide: what makes a ruby valuable, what pigeon's blood really means, origins from Myanmar to Mozambique, heated, flux-healed and glass-filled...

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Vintage puffed mariner link chain in 10k gold, 22 inches, with domed oval links each crossed by a centre bar.
October 2026

Gold Chain Types: Mariner, Cuban, Figaro, Rope and Box — and How to Spot a Hollow One

Gold chain types explained: cable, curb, Cuban, mariner and the puffed Gucci link, Figaro, rope, box, wheat, snake and herringbone, which ones...

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Imperial Russian ring with three blue sapphires and old cut diamonds set flush in a hand-engraved 14k gold band, hallmarked 56 zolotnik, 1864.
October 2026

Rose Gold, Red Gold and Russian Gold: Why Antique Gold Looks Pink

Why antique gold looks pink: how copper makes rose, pink and red gold, what 56 zolotnik and Soviet 583 mean, why rose...

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A signed Solvar Claddagh ring in 10k yellow gold, with two hands holding a crowned heart.
October 2026

Claddagh Ring Meaning: Which Hand, Which Way, and Where It Came From

Claddagh ring meaning: what the hands, heart and crown stand for, which hand and which way to wear it, where the design...

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A 1.06 carat L colour old mine cut diamond bezel-set in an 18k yellow gold engagement ring.
October 2026

Diamond Color Scale D to Z: Why Warm Antique Diamonds Deserve a Second Look

Diamond color scale D to Z: the five GIA colour groups, how colour is graded against master stones, how setting metal and...

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Hands holding a jeweler's loupe over the stamped marks inside a gold ring, with calipers and an open sketchbook on the workbench.
October 2026

How to Tell If Hermès Jewelry Is Real: Clic H, Kelly and Chaîne d'Ancre

How to tell if Hermès jewelry is real: fashion vs fine jewelry, the HERMES stamp and metal marks, Clic H enamel and...

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