Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

Loose emerald, ruby, sapphire, citrine and amethyst gemstones on an antique tray with tweezers, a loupe and cut diagrams.
September 2026

Antique Sapphires: Ceylon, Kashmir, and What “Unheated” Really Means

Origin and heat treatment move sapphire prices more than colour does. What Kashmir, Ceylon and Burma actually mean, why unheated stones command...

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A hand placing an antique diamond cluster ring into a velvet ring box beside pencil design sketches of the ring.
September 2026

Cluster Rings: From Victorian Daisies to Edwardian Coronets

A cluster ring is not a halo. It is a group of stones designed to read as one jewel — the oldest...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings in a velvet tray, with a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
August 2026

Antique Cushion vs Modern Cushion: Why They Look Nothing Alike

Two stones can both be called cushion cut and share almost nothing. The antique cushion and the modern cushion differ in crown,...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet with brass calipers, a loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
August 2026

Rose Cut Diamonds: The Oldest Cut Still Worn

A rose cut has no pavilion, no culet and no table — just a flat base and a dome of triangular facets....

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A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
August 2026

Art Nouveau Jewelry: Reading the Curve (1890–1910)

Art Nouveau lasted barely twenty years and broke the rule that jewelry should be valued by its stones. Enamel, horn, glass —...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
August 2026

Georgian Jewelry: What Survives, and What to Pay For (1714–1837)

Georgian jewelry is the oldest thing most collectors will ever realistically own — handmade, candlelit, and rarer than people assume. What survives,...

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A hand wearing an antique old European cut diamond ring on green velvet, with two antique halo rings and a diamond necklace nearby.
August 2026

Edwardian Jewelry: The Garland Era Explained (1901–1915)

Edwardian jewelry is the lightest antique jewelry ever made — platinum lace, milgrain edges and diamonds that look like they are floating....

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An empty gold engagement ring setting beside an Asscher-cut diamond made into a pendant, an heirloom redesign.
August 2026

Heirloom Redesign: How to Turn Inherited Jewelry Into Something You'll Actually Wear

You inherited a ring you love and never wear. Here's how to redesign an heirloom into something you'll put on daily —...

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Chart of common gemstone treatments — heat, oil, dye and glass filling — marking which are accepted and which reduce value.
August 2026

Common Gemstone Treatments: What's Accepted, What Kills Value

Heat, glass-filling, dyeing, irradiation — a plain-English guide to which gemstone treatments are normal, which quietly destroy value, and what a seller...

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