Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

An Art Deco onyx and diamond ring beside an old-cut diamond spray brooch and a Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, on green velvet.
October 2026

White Gold vs Platinum vs Silver: How to Tell Them Apart

White gold vs platinum vs silver: how to tell them apart by marks such as PT950, IRIDPLAT, 750 and 925, by weight...

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Loose emerald, ruby, sapphire, citrine and amethyst gemstones on an antique tray beside tweezers, a jeweler's loupe and gem cut diagrams.
October 2026

Birthstones by Month: The Full List, What Each Means, and the Antique Versions

Birthstones by month: the full modern list and its alternatives, the 1912 origins and later additions such as tanzanite and spinel, traditional...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet beside brass calipers, a jeweler's loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
October 2026

Diamond Clarity Chart: FL to I3, Eye-Clean, and What Actually Matters

Diamond clarity chart from FL to I3: what each GIA grade means at 10x, the inclusion types on a report, which grades...

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Hands examining the hallmarks inside an antique gold ring through a jeweler's loupe, with calipers and a sketchbook on the table.
October 2026

How to Tell If a Cartier Juste un Clou Is Real

How to tell if a Cartier Juste un Clou is real: Aldo Cipullo's 1970s nail design and its 2012 relaunch, nail head...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings arranged in a velvet tray beside a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
October 2026

White Gold vs Yellow Gold vs Rose Gold: What's in Each, and Which to Choose

White gold vs yellow gold vs rose gold: what metals are in each alloy, rhodium plating and why white gold turns yellow,...

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A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
October 2026

Marina B Jewelry: The Cult 1980s Jeweler Collectors Are Hunting Again

Marina Bulgari left the family firm and founded Marina B in 1978. The story, the Pneu, Cardan and Onda designs, bold colored...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
October 2026

Boucheron: The First Jeweler on Place Vendôme, and What to Collect

Boucheron opened at the Palais-Royal in 1858 and became the first great jeweler on Place Vendôme in 1893. The history, the Question...

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Vintage Tiffany & Co. Return to Tiffany heart tag bracelet in 18k yellow gold
October 2026

Vintage Gold Charm and Link Bracelets: Link Types, Clasps and What to Look For

How to buy a vintage gold bracelet: curb, cable, rolo, Figaro, anchor and box links, clasps and safety chains, solid versus hollow...

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A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
October 2026

David Webb Jewelry: Enamel Animals, Hammered Gold and 1960s New York Glamour

David Webb built a New York house on enamel animal bracelets, hammered gold and big cabochons. Who he was, how signed WEBB...

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