Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
October 2026

Signed vs Unsigned Jewelry: Why a Maker's Mark Changes the Price

What a signature on jewelry really means: maker's marks vs retailer marks, signed vs attributed vs in the manner of, added signatures...

Read more
Hands inspecting the hallmarks inside an antique gold ring with a jeweler's loupe, beside calipers and a sketchbook.
October 2026

How to Tell If Silver Is Real: 925, Sterling Marks and Simple Tests

How to tell if silver is real: what 925, Sterling and the lion passant mean, which marks such as EPNS and nickel...

Read more
Vintage twisted gold-rope clip-on earrings set with old cut diamonds in 14k yellow gold
October 2026

Clip-On Earrings: Why Vintage Clips Are Back, and How to Wear Them All Day

Why clip-on earrings were the mid-century standard, how to make clip-on earrings comfortable with placement, pads and jeweler-set tension, and what converting...

Read more
Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
October 2026

Bulgari Serpenti and Tubogas: The Snake, the Coil and What to Buy Pre-Owned

The Bulgari Serpenti from its 1940s Tubogas beginnings to the enamelled 1960s watches and the modern line: why it is spelled BVLGARI,...

Read more
An antique old mine cut diamond ring on green velvet beside ring sizers, a polishing cloth, a velvet pouch and a wax-sealed envelope.
October 2026

How to Clean Antique Jewelry at Home Without Ruining It

How to clean antique jewelry at home safely: the gentle method that works, what never to use on emeralds, opals, pearls, enamel...

Read more
Antique diamond rings and diamond cluster earrings arranged on an ornate silver tray over dark green velvet
October 2026

The Cartier Tank: A Buyer's Guide to the Vintage Watch Everyone Wants

The Cartier Tank has been made since 1919 in dozens of versions, from solid gold manual-wind to vermeil quartz. The history, the...

Read more
A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
October 2026

How to Tell If Pearls Are Real: The Tooth Test and Better Ones

How to tell if pearls are real or imitation: the tooth test done properly, what drill holes and lustre reveal, why glass,...

Read more
A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
October 2026

Vintage Cartier Jewelry Beyond the Love Bracelet: Panthère, Trinity, Tutti Frutti and More

Vintage Cartier jewelry beyond the Love bracelet: the Panthère from the 1914 watch to the Duchess of Windsor brooch, the 1924 Trinity,...

Read more
1.06 carat old mine cut diamond bezel-set in an 18k yellow gold engagement ring
October 2026

Bezel-Set Engagement Rings: Pros, Cons and Why They Suit Real Life

Bezel vs prong setting, honestly compared: security, snagging, the light performance myth, cleaning, resizing and cost, plus why the oldest setting in...

Read more

Every guide on one page — the site map