The Journal · Topic

Heirlooms & Bespoke Design

Inherited stones, remakes and commissions — how to decide what an heirloom should become, and how bespoke and sourcing work in practice.

An antique old mine cut diamond ring on green velvet beside ring sizers, a polishing cloth, a velvet pouch and a wax-sealed envelope.
October 2026

What Is an Arthritic Shank? The Ring Band Designed Around a Knuckle

What an arthritic shank is, how hinged, adjustable and expanding shanks differ from sizing beads and ring guards, who needs one, how...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
September 2026

Sourcing: How a Specific Antique Ring Actually Gets Found

You know exactly what you want and it is not for sale anywhere. Sourcing is the work of finding it — what...

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A hand placing an antique diamond cluster ring into a velvet ring box beside pencil design sketches of the ring.
September 2026

Designing a Ring Around an Inherited Diamond

Resetting an inherited stone is the most emotionally loaded work in jewelry, and the technical decisions get made badly when the conversation...

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An empty gold engagement ring setting beside an Asscher-cut diamond made into a pendant, an heirloom redesign.
August 2026

Heirloom Redesign: How to Turn Inherited Jewelry Into Something You'll Actually Wear

You inherited a ring you love and never wear. Here's how to redesign an heirloom into something you'll put on daily —...

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Antique and vintage diamond jewelry on a silver tray — old-cut diamond rings, a star locket and estate necklaces on dark green velvet.
July 2026

Wear What Survived: The Story of ZHIVA

Years inside the fine antique and estate jewelry world teach you what's truly fine — and what to walk away from. That...

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