Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

Hands inspecting the hallmarks inside an antique gold ring with a jeweler's loupe, beside calipers and a sketchbook.
October 2026

How to Tell If a Bulgari B.zero1 Ring Is Real

How to tell if a Bulgari B.zero1 ring is real: the 1999 Colosseum-inspired design, BVLGARI engraving on the rims, inside marks and...

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Imperial Russian ring with three blue sapphires and old cut diamonds, bezel-set in hand-engraved 14k gold, front view.
October 2026

Tanzanite vs Sapphire: How to Tell Them Apart, and Which Lasts

Tanzanite vs sapphire: zoisite from Tanzania's Merelani Hills against corundum, how to tell them apart by colour and refractive index, heat treatment,...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet with brass calipers, a loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
October 2026

Diamond Shapes Guide: Oval, Cushion, Emerald, Pear and Marquise — and Their Antique Ancestors

Diamond shapes compared: oval, cushion, emerald, Asscher, pear and marquise, with face-up size, bow-tie, length-to-width ratios, durability, colour visibility and price per...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings in a velvet tray, with a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
October 2026

How Much Should You Spend on an Engagement Ring? The Strange History of the Salary Rule

How much to spend on an engagement ring: the De Beers and N.W. Ayer history behind the two months' salary rule, why...

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An antique old mine cut diamond ring on green velvet beside ring sizers, a polishing cloth, a velvet pouch and a wax-sealed envelope.
October 2026

Why Does My Ring Turn My Finger Green or Black?

Why rings turn fingers green or black: copper in brass, plated jewelry, sterling and low-karat gold reacting with sweat and lotions, makeup...

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Loose emerald, ruby, sapphire, citrine and amethyst gemstones on an antique tray with tweezers, a loupe and gemstone cut diagrams.
October 2026

Alexandrite: The Colour-Change Gem of the Tsars, and How to Spot a Fake

Alexandrite explained: the colour-change chrysoberyl from the Urals, why it turns green to red, Brazilian and Sri Lankan sources, synthetic alexandrite and...

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Antique gold jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
October 2026

Green Gold and Tri-Colour Gold: The Oldest Trick in the Jeweler's Book

Green gold and tri-colour gold explained: how silver and copper change the colour of gold, electrum, Georgian and Retro multi-colour jewelry, the...

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Signed Tiffany & Co. Return to Tiffany heart tag chain bracelet in 18k yellow gold, the tag engraved Please Return to Tiffany & Co. New York.
October 2026

How to Tell If Tiffany Jewelry Is Real: Return to Tiffany, Tiffany T and Elsa Peretti

How to tell if Tiffany jewelry is real: the marks to look for, Return to Tiffany engraving and tag checks, Tiffany T...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet with brass calipers, a loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
October 2026

Diamond Fluorescence: Good, Bad, or Overblown?

Diamond fluorescence explained: what the blue glow is, GIA grades from None to Very Strong, what GIA research found about appearance, rare...

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