The Journal · Topic

Jewelry Eras & History

Georgian to Retro, 1714 to the 1940s — how to recognise each era by its metals, cuts, settings and motifs, and what genuinely survives from it.

Antique gold jewelry on a silver tray beside hand-drawn antique jewelry designs on aged paper.
September 2026

Signet Rings: From Seal to Style

The signet ring is the oldest ring with a job. It was a signature, and the test of a real one is...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings in a velvet tray, with a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
September 2026

Cocktail Rings: The Statement Ring With a Prohibition Backstory

The cocktail ring was designed to be seen holding a glass you were not legally allowed to hold. Where the style came...

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Antique old-cut diamond engagement rings and pear drop earrings in a velvet tray, with a jeweler's loupe and ring sketches.
September 2026

Three-Stone Rings: The History, the Marketing, and How to Choose One

The past, present and future story is 1990s advertising, not history. Three-stone rings are far older and far more interesting than that...

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Hands inspecting the hallmarks inside an antique gold ring with a jeweler's loupe, beside calipers and a sketchbook.
September 2026

How to Date an Antique Ring Without a Hallmark

Most antique rings carry no usable hallmark. Dating them is a matter of reading construction: the cut of the stones, how the...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
September 2026

Retro Jewelry of the 1940s: Big Gold, Bold Colour, Wartime Rules

When platinum was requisitioned for the war effort, jewelers turned to gold and made it loud. Retro jewelry is the most undervalued...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
September 2026

Victorian Mourning Jewelry: Jet, Hair, and Memory

For forty years the Victorians wore their grief in public, and built an entire industry to do it. How to identify jet...

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A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
September 2026

Antique Lockets: How to Date One, Open It Safely, and Wear It

A locket is the only jewelry designed to hold a secret. How to date one by its construction, what the different styles...

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A hand placing an antique diamond cluster ring into a velvet ring box beside pencil design sketches of the ring.
September 2026

Cluster Rings: From Victorian Daisies to Edwardian Coronets

A cluster ring is not a halo. It is a group of stones designed to read as one jewel — the oldest...

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A Victorian gold locket with a pearl star, an old-cut diamond spray brooch and an Art Deco onyx and diamond ring on green velvet.
August 2026

Art Nouveau Jewelry: Reading the Curve (1890–1910)

Art Nouveau lasted barely twenty years and broke the rule that jewelry should be valued by its stones. Enamel, horn, glass —...

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