The Journal · Topic
Jewelry Eras & History
Georgian to Retro, 1714 to the 1940s — how to recognise each era by its metals, cuts, settings and motifs, and what genuinely survives from it.
Signet Rings: From Seal to Style
The signet ring is the oldest ring with a job. It was a signature, and the test of a real one is...
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Cocktail Rings: The Statement Ring With a Prohibition Backstory
The cocktail ring was designed to be seen holding a glass you were not legally allowed to hold. Where the style came...
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Three-Stone Rings: The History, the Marketing, and How to Choose One
The past, present and future story is 1990s advertising, not history. Three-stone rings are far older and far more interesting than that...
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How to Date an Antique Ring Without a Hallmark
Most antique rings carry no usable hallmark. Dating them is a matter of reading construction: the cut of the stones, how the...
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Retro Jewelry of the 1940s: Big Gold, Bold Colour, Wartime Rules
When platinum was requisitioned for the war effort, jewelers turned to gold and made it loud. Retro jewelry is the most undervalued...
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Victorian Mourning Jewelry: Jet, Hair, and Memory
For forty years the Victorians wore their grief in public, and built an entire industry to do it. How to identify jet...
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Antique Lockets: How to Date One, Open It Safely, and Wear It
A locket is the only jewelry designed to hold a secret. How to date one by its construction, what the different styles...
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Cluster Rings: From Victorian Daisies to Edwardian Coronets
A cluster ring is not a halo. It is a group of stones designed to read as one jewel — the oldest...
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Art Nouveau Jewelry: Reading the Curve (1890–1910)
Art Nouveau lasted barely twenty years and broke the rule that jewelry should be valued by its stones. Enamel, horn, glass —...
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