Journal

The Journal

Field notes from inside the antique and estate jewelry trade — what to look for, what to walk away from.

Hands inspecting the hallmarks inside an antique gold ring with a jeweler's loupe, beside calipers and a sketchbook.
September 2026

How to Date an Antique Ring Without a Hallmark

Most antique rings carry no usable hallmark. Dating them is a matter of reading construction: the cut of the stones, how the...

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A hand wearing an antique old European cut diamond ring on green velvet, with two antique halo rings and a diamond necklace nearby.
September 2026

Why Antique Diamonds Sparkle Differently: Fire, Brilliance and the Light They Were Cut For

Antique and modern diamonds do not just look different — they are solving different optical problems, for different light. Understanding fire, brilliance...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet with brass calipers, a loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
September 2026

Old Mine Cut Diamonds: What Actually Drives the Price

Old mine cut diamonds do not price like modern stones, and the grading report that governs a modern diamond actively works against...

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An antique old mine cut diamond ring on green velvet beside ring sizers, a polishing cloth, a velvet pouch and a wax-sealed envelope.
September 2026

Buying Antique Jewelry Online Without Getting Burned

Almost all antique jewelry now sells online, where you cannot hold the piece or see it in daylight. The photographs to demand,...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
September 2026

Retro Jewelry of the 1940s: Big Gold, Bold Colour, Wartime Rules

When platinum was requisitioned for the war effort, jewelers turned to gold and made it loud. Retro jewelry is the most undervalued...

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Antique jewelry on green velvet in a gilt tray: a star-set gold locket, diamond cluster brooch, pear drop earrings, emerald ring, cameo and a brass loupe.
September 2026

Victorian Mourning Jewelry: Jet, Hair, and Memory

For forty years the Victorians wore their grief in public, and built an entire industry to do it. How to identify jet...

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An antique old mine cut diamond ring on green velvet beside ring sizers, a polishing cloth, a velvet pouch and a wax-sealed envelope.
September 2026

Insuring Antique Jewelry: Appraisals, Riders, and Real Numbers

Your home insurance almost certainly does not cover the ring properly. What kind of appraisal you need, how a scheduled rider differs...

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Loose emerald, ruby, sapphire, citrine and amethyst gemstones on an antique tray with tweezers, a loupe and cut diagrams.
September 2026

Antique Opals: Why the Victorians Loved Them, and How to Wear One

Opal is water and silica, soft enough to scratch on a doorframe, and the Victorians put it in everything. Where the bad...

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Loose old mine and old European cut diamonds on green velvet with brass calipers, a loupe and diamond cut diagrams.
September 2026

Transitional Cut Diamonds: The Bridge Nobody Talks About

Between the old European cut and the modern brilliant sits a stone with no marketing behind it. Transitional cuts have antique character...

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